Friday, June 12, 2009

Addendum to Yesterday's Post

So it turns out I posted the blog a little too early because something really interesting happened last night. Mara (another ENP intern) and I went to Tel Aviv to have dinner at an Ethiopian restaurant that also has dancers every Thursday night. As great as Ethiopian food is, the dancing is even cooler. It's impossible to explain what it looks like. you just have to see it. As we were walking past the security guard to get into the restaurant, he just stared at us. We held out our bags for him to check and he just kept staring.
"Oh you are going in here?" he asked us. We told him yes.
"Do you know what this is?"
"It's a restaurant, right?"
"Yes, it's an Ethiopian restaurant"
"Yea, we know" He couldn't get over his shock and didn't end up checking our bags. It was so bizarre to him that two young white girls would want to go to an Ethiopian restaurant. But we went and the food was really good. I had actually first heard about this restaurant from the Ethiopians who lived in my absorption center in Natzrat Ilit who all loved it. I only found it because it is right next to a gelato stand on the beach that a friend and I went to last week and I happened to sit in the right position so that I was staring right at the restaurant. I have been to that gelato stand so many times this year and I've never noticed it before.

While we were eating, we were talking about how even though the Ethiopian community is poor in Israel, it is a world away from the black community in the US. Each community's problems are completely different. But Ethiopians feel a connection to black people in the US, they don't realize there's such a difference. In Israel it's normal for everyone to really want to move to the US; people have asked me if I could give them my green card multiple times (I think they think we just carry green cards with us in case we feel like handing them out.) But Ethiopians really want to go to the US. I only learned why recently. Kendall, another intern for ENP is black and he does a lot of work in the community centers. He realized that the reason Ethiopians want to go to the US so much is because they only see Oprah, Will Smith, Akon (he's a singer for the older crowd), and Obama. They think that in the US the black community is rich and has everything because that's all they see. Once I heard this, it made total sense. In the Ethiopian teen centers I worked in they were so curious about America. A few kids asked us if we see black people dancing in the street (They watch the movie Step Up a lot). They didn't believe us when we said no.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

The Beginning of the End

As of now, I have 16 days left in Israel. We had our final ceremony a few nights ago. We have it before we actually end because some people have to leave early to work at summer camps. I've already said goodbye to one friend. She lives in Milwaukee so chances are it's going to be a long time before we see each other again which is really bizarre to think about. Tonight I'm saying goodbye to two more. Just typing this is making me sad. The whole ceremony was bittersweet. It was the last time that the whole group will really be together. Although nothing about the ceremony itself was sad, a lot of us were close to tears. The ceremony was for otzmanikim and their adoptive families, so Neta and Idit came. They've been really amazing this year- whenever I spend the weekend at their house, it really is like going home. They take good care of me and I've definitely become part of their family again. Neta and I have reconnected and become good friends again after 10 years of being apart.

We also had a surprise guest at the ceremony. About three weeks ago, Dave left the program because he had mono. He miraculously healed at home and hours before the ceremony began, he showed up at our hotel in Jerusalem. It was great to have him back- everyone was shocked to see him again.

I'm still working with ENP and enjoying it. A lot of the interns here go to Hebrew University and their program ended already so a few weeks ago, we all were taken out for a thank you lunch at an Ethiopian restaurant nearby. It was really nice hanging out with everyone and talking about things not work-related. It was scary to see their program ending because even though Otzma is one of the last year-long programs to end, it's the beginning of the end to watch everything ending around me. One of the other interns here, Mara, is from San Francisco and we actually know a lot of the same people. It's been really great working with her and getting to know her. We'll definitely be keeping in touch back in the bay area. Mara has extended her trip and so she's still here working with me at ENP. She knew Danna from BBYO back in high school, so when Danna came over last weekend, Mara slept over too.

Earlier this week, I went to a scholarship ceremony for ENP. They work with federations to give university scholarships to Ethiopian students. The only white people at the ceremony were ENP staff and a couple of the speakers. This was the most immersed I've been all year in the Ethiopian community. The ceremony was 2 hours of speeches in Hebrew that I had to take notes on- that's right folks, I guess I can definitely speak the language now. Which is perfect timing cause my English is starting to go. (Whenever we speak in English here, we use simple words because we never know how much someone understands. So everyone's higher language vocabulary is going.) I've been through plenty of ceremonies this year aimed at Americans so it was really interesting to go to one aimed at the Ethiopian community. At every ceremony for Americans, we are always encouraged countless times to make aliyah (move to Israel). This ceremony, the overriding theme was to give back. Only 3,000 Ethiopian-Israelis are in university so all of the speakers really encouraged the students to go back and volunteer in their communities, in the teen centers, schools and community centers and to be an example to other Ethiopian-Israeli teenagers and encourage them to aim for university too. Part of ENP's rhetoric is that they work with the Ethiopian community to help themselves to advance in Israeli society. This was the first time that I was able to really see that in action. It was really touching to see how hard everyone had worked to reach university. A few of them were studying at top universities. One girl I talked to was from Kiryat Malachi. After seeing first hand the quality of her high school education, I'm pretty amazed that she managed to reach university. Though there were programs in place in Kiryat Malachi to help students that worked hard, it was clear you had to really want it and try hard to succeed.

Here's all of the interns at lunch!

Monday, May 11, 2009

A Day in the Life

Life in Jerusalem is really routine. I wake up, go to work, come back, eat dinner, hang out a little, go to sleep. The working world is boring. A lot of people are actually having a few issues with this. After such a year of adventure, this is what everyone has to look forward to (at least if they can find work). Most of us love what we're doing, but it's just so mundane.


To give ourselves a little break, we've all been traveling more on weekends. We're starting to realize how few we have left.One of my first weekends, I went to Tel Aviv to visit the other half of OTZMA. Nothing makes you appreciate Tel Aviv more than living in Jerusalem. I had never felt the young, relaxed vibe of Tel Aviv until this trip. The first night there was an outdoor concert for Tel Aviv's 100 Years celebration. Everyone there was in their twenties and having a great time. It was amazing to see how much the people in the Tel Aviv group changed in the 2 weeks since I had last seen them. They all looked so tan, fresh and relaxed; all of which are words that would definitely not have been used to describe us in Track 2 when we were all living in grubby little towns. (Actually many people felt really overwhelmed when we first moved into our big cities because there's just so many more people than we had become accustommed to.) Everyone in Jerusalem is still looks pretty haggard, stressed and pale-at least relatively, we do live in Israel afterall. It's amazing what that Mediterranean can do to help a person relax.

Last weekend, I went all the way north to Acco. A friend and I left Jerusalem at 6 AM and after 4 hours of travel, reached the city. Acco's actually a really cool city. The old city has ruins from Roman times. The old Roman fortress has been renovated a few times and was used as a prison up until around the mid-1980's. It's supposed to be one of the most in-penetrable prisons in the world, but there was a famous escape Israeli resistance fighters during the British rule in Israel. There's also an underground tunnel used by the Templar nights and an old Turkish bathhouse- although going to a Turkish bathhouse just wasn't the same without the full experience.

At around 4 we finished seeing all the sites and spent the next hour wandering through the city tryying to find our hostel. When we got there, we asked how much it would be and the man told us 250 shekels ($60 about). We told him that 2 days before when we called, they said it would be 40 shekels ($10). He told us yes, but that was for the dormitory room which was under construction- they had decided to tear down the room within the 2 days between our call and our arrival. He told us however, that the workmen leave at 7 and he could move the beds back in for us then.

All this time, my friend had been talking to the man in Hebrew and I was sure I didn't understand what they were saying. It turns out, I did understand, it was just so ridiculous that I assumed I must have misunderstood. I'm finding that the majority of the times I don't understand what is being said to me, I actually do understand, I just assume I misunderstood because what is being said is just too preposterous.

We went to look at the room and saw it was covered in sawdust with workbenches everywhere- they were actually in the process of tearing down the room to rebuild a nicer room. The door and the windows to the room were missing and all the old metal bedframes were standing outside. Both of us have learned to be flexible this year but even OTZMA hadn't prepared us enough for this. By this point, it wasn't long until transportation stopped for Shabbat which wasn't nearly enough time to get back to Jerusalem or Tel Aviv. Luckily, one girl on OTZMA is living in the hospital in Nahariyya to work with psychiatric patients. It took us an hour to make the 10-minute trip to Nahariyya (because nothing goes right for OTZMAnikim) and slept on her floor for the night. Of course we didn't have time to buy enough food before Shabbat so we had a very hungry Saturday.

Right now for ENP I'm doing a lot of funding research. I just finished researching and starting to reach out to grant foundations. I'm now working on looking up companies that are based in the cities we operate. In Israel, it's still a fairly new idea to have companies support the communities they operate in, so the next step is to reach out to them and convince them it's a good idea. The work isn't all that interesting but I like researching and a major part of what I do is organizing the information into excel spreadsheets, and you all know how much I love to organize so it's great for me. ( Note that I said organize, not clean- some things never change).

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

The Big City

This week, I moved into my apartment in Jerusalem. I'm now living with 2 boys- Avi who has a type A personality and just graduated with a degree in finance and Warner, who lived in India the past 2 years. We're quite an odd mix, but so far it works. This is the first apartment I've had all year where we do dinner together. Warner and I trade off cooking and we all sit and have family dinners together. Warner had to push me and Avi a little into doing it but it's really nice.

What I did not previously know about this apartment is that it's actually a hotel room. I'm living in the kitchen. That means that of the ten months total I will spend in Israel, I will have spent 5 months living in a joint kitchen/living room, 1 month living on army bases, 2 weeks sharing a bed which the previous owners probably died in, 2 weeks having no home, and 2.5 months living in an apartment that actually could have been made for the amount of people living there.

It's really nice to be in a city. We live in the center of the city so its always busy and there are always people around. It's also nice to have more people from OTZMA around. Even though only 12 out of the 50 live in Jerusalem, that's still double the amount that was in Kiryat Malachi. It's also great to see stores being open past 7 and things like resteraunts and coffee shops- wonders almost too good to be true.

I've started my internship for Ethiopian National Project. ENP works to help integrate Ethiopian-Israeli teenagers into Israeli society. I'm doing a lot here- researching grants, writing grants, writing articles, putting together the newsletter, and preparing for next year's General Assembly. The GA next year is in Washington DC so I'll help put together the booth while I work here and then I'll probably be volunteering at it next year. Check out one of the articles I wrote for ENP at enpblog.blogspot.com

I really love what I'm doing here. It's a small office and everyone is really nice. It's also great to feel useful and productive. I think I'm really going to enjoy my time at ENP

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Istanbul was Constantinople

We have a 2 week vacation for Passover so I decided to go to Istanbul for a week with Sarah, Rena and Becky, a few friends from the program. All of us loved the city. It is a very modern European looking city. It is also a very clean city, although we could never find a trash can when we needed one. About half the population is religious so it's very interesting to see the contrast between the modern city and people walking around with their heads covered, some wearing the full burka.

There are some things that we define as being distinctly Israeli that we all learned were Middle Eastern, not Israeli. For example, in Israel, it is hugely popular for boys to wear shirts with horizontal stripes. Everyone wears them all the time. Sunflower seeds were also very popular in Istanbul as well as in Israel. And of course all clothing was bedazzled in Istanbul too. I will never understand why people here love sparkles as much as they do. In Istanbul, we actually found a bedazzlement shop. Thousands and thousands of sparkles in all different colors, shapes and sizes, in case your clothing didn't have enough sparkles already.

As I'm sure you all know, our President visited Istanbul this past week. As soon as anyone found out we were Americans, they were so excited and all shouted, "Hey, Obama!" at us. Everyone wanted to know if we had voted for him. They absolutely love Obama in Istanbul. Everyone was so excited he was coming. On Tuesday, when he was actually there, there were 1400 CIA agents and 4000 Turkish police officers guarding the city. Obama was visiting the main tourist attractions, the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, and we stayed near them, so we couldn't leave our neighborhood because all the roads were blocked off. We had to go outside the walls of the city and walk along the water to get out. Even the water was being guarded, although these guards were obviously not taking it very seriously. They were standing around eating sunflower seeds and inspecting what the fishermen were catching. A group that we passed standing on the walls of the city saw us looking up at them and waved at us. We passed the attractions and reached the main city just as a road was being cleared off for the president to pass by. We stood at the side of the road and saw the whole presidential parade go by. I was able to see Obama in his car as he drove by.

Another interesting experience for us was the Turkish Bath. Our hostel had a deal with the oldest Turkish bathhouse in Istanbul so we went there. We were given towels by a women who doesn't speak English and once we had changed we were shuffled into the bath room by a women who looked like she had worked in the bathhouse for its entire existence. She wore nothing but a bathing suit bottom and a head covering. Once in the room, she ripped off Sarah's towel and moved here to a seat on one of the marble benches. We all sat down next to basins and were given pans to spoon water onto ourselves to bathe ourselves. In the middle of the room, we noticed a huge table with a girl lying on it. Apparently, the table in the middle of the room is where each person has their turn being massaged. After she finished massaging you with soap, the old women, whom we decided was named Hagar, splashed a bucket of water on you. It was without a doubt one of the most unusual and awkward experiences of our lives. That says a lot considering the past seven months we've been through.

We decided to leave Istanbul one day and go to Bursa, the former capital of the Ottoman Empire. Bursa was a cute little city on a hill with lots of trees and a river running through it. We were the only Americans on our tour. There were 2 women from Morocco, a women from Brazil and 3 couples from Bahrain, 2 of whom were traveling together. We learned that Bahrain is an island country off the coast of Saudi Arabia. None of us were surprised to see that sunflower seeds, striped shirts, and bedazzlement were also popular in Bahrain. Apparently there is an American Naval base in Bahrain and the princess married an officer. Although it is around 130 degrees in the summer, there is so much air conditioning, you can't even tell. Even the streets are air conditioned. It was really interesting learning about life in Bahrain. There are Christian, Jewish and Muslim families that all live together. They also love Obama and were excited to be in Istanbul when he was there too. All of us got invited to spend our next vacation in Bahrain.

All of us had been keeping quiet the fact that we live in Israel. We didn't want politics to be a part of our vacation and it was our first time in a Muslim country so we weren't sure how people would react. Although we didn't we all wished we had told the people from Bahrain that we live in Israel. A huge part of our year has been learning about the conflict and sessions and seminars on everything related. We had talked to people from all sides and had conversations with Palestinians, West Bank settlers and Israeli Arabs. However none of us have ever talked with people living in an Arab nation who weren't handpicked out to talk to us. Bahrain is right next to Saudi Arabia, but people have lots of rights, they can practice their own religion and women do not have to cover their hair. It would have been nice to see what a random person from a different country thought about it all.

Our tour guide in Bursa had a friend who had recently traveled to the gulf. She had brought back authentic kohl eyeliner for our tourguide. The directions were written in Arabic so the guide couldn't read it. She asked the women from Bahrain to translate it and explain to her what to do. Apparently, the eyeliner she had received is no longer used. It has a 5% lead content, so no women in the gulf states use it anymore. Now, they just us Lancome Paris, MAC or other makeups from Europe and America. The women all laughed at the tourguide and she was a little upset she couldn't use her authentic eyeliner.

We all really enjoyed our trip. It was refreshing to be in a big city after spending so much time in our little towns. Everyone was really friendly. Multiple times when we were lost, people would stop to help and walk us to where we were headed. We loved meeting people from all different places and talking to everyone. It was a really nice to go away for awhile and refocus before we all move to cities for the final 2 months of OTZMA

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Kiryat Malachi and Beyond

The holiday of Purim was recently celebrated in Israel. All schools got three days off for it. The day before Purim, the schools had parties and everyone wore their costumes to school, like in the US for Halloween. For weeks before, everyone kept asking us what we were dressing up as. In all the shopping centers, photography booths popped up so that people could get pictures of their kids dressed as lions, princesses, or Darth Vader. Also much like the US, teenagers love to play tricks for Purim. Firecrackers, though illegal, were plentiful in Kiryat Malachi. Teenagers loved throwing them in the school halls during class, or during the breaks or at the nearest American volunteer (aka us). We were all very happy to see the firecrackers go as the holiday ended.

It took us awhile to figure out what to do for Purim. There is a big street party in Tel Aviv. In a neighborhood called Florentine, all the roads are blocked off and everyone comes out in costume. We ended up going to the party thrown by Ben Gurion University in Beer Sheva. Two engineering students who were with us were dead set on winning the costume contest. They decided to go as Asterix and Obelix, characters in a French cartoon. We were able to witness the last minute frenzy of sewing the costumes together, stuffing the fake belly with foam padding, and making sure all the lights on the costumes turned on (they were electrical engineering students). At the end of the night though, they won a flat screen TV. At a later party, they won a trip to Turkey for their costumes.

After Purim, we only had two weeks left in Kiryat Malachi before the Passover break. We are all starting to wrap up our volunteering. My favorite thing I've done here was working at the senior center. I work in the art room there doing little projects and talking to the seniors. One who I've gotten to know well, came from Spain in 1950 when he was fifteen. He came on his own and lived in Jerusalem for 6 years before the rest of his family came to Kiryat Malachi and he moved to the city too. Another man that I've met was born in Kiryat Malachi when it was still a tent city. Almost everyone who frequents the senior center was born in a different country and immigrated. It's really interesting to talk to them and hear their stories about how they came, their lives here, and where their families are now. They are all also very patient in helping me with my Hebrew, since they all had to learn it as a second language too, they understand when I make mistakes or don't know certain words and love to teach me.

I also really love working with the high school seniors. I work with the highest level, so they all speak really good English. I spent my first few weeks with them preparing them for their oral exams in English, so I interviewed them all about their lives. Since I never became very close with my host family in the city, I went over to my students' houses when I was in Kiryat Malachi for a weekend.

After we finish here, we have a two week break for Passover. I'm going to be going to Turkey for part of it with a few friends. After our break, we begin the internship portion of OTZMA- the last track. I'm going to be living in Jerusalem working for the Ethiopian National Project. ENP works to bring programming to Ethiopian teenagers to help them succeed. Many of the teen centers that OTZMAnikim have been working at are funded by the Ethiopian National Project. I'm looking forward to working for them, but I can't believe it's the almost the third track already. This year has gone so fast for all of us. A little more than 2.5 months until OTZMA is over.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Adventures in Food, Culture and Language

For the first time in a long time, I have had a week that I would consider normal. I went to work, I went to the gym, and I cooked- that pretty much describes my week. So I decided, so that you all can fully understand my experience here, to give you and update on my experiences in food, culture and language in Israel (backwards).

Language- The most meanyen (interesting) words in Hebrew
*to pronunciate these words it is important to understand i= the sound ee, e=eh, a=ah, and ch=the guttural sound Hebrew is so famous for.

stam- this is by far the best word in the Hebrew language. It means jk (just kidding for the non-instant message/text message generation). To clarify, this word does not translate to just kidding, it translates exactly to jk. It entertains me to no end that there is a socially acceptable word for jk.
agvaniah- this means tomato. It also means butt cheek.
balagan- this translates in English to the word chaos, but it doesn't quite have the same beauty that balagan has. In Israel, every situation is chaotic, so balagan comes up a lot
lenaker-when you are drowsy and are about to fall asleep while you are sitting, you start to nod off and your head tends to fall then it wakes you up a little and you quickly bounce it back up. That is what this word means. It comes from the word for woodpecker.
bassa/chaval- Bassa means bummer and chaval means shame. The root for the word chaval is the same as the one for sabotage and for terrorist. However, in Hebrew, the connotations for chaval and bassa have switched. If you forget your cellphone or you are having a bad day, thats chaval. Bassa is used in the sense, "Whoops, I just killed a little girl. Bassa." or "Oh no, there's about to be a nuclear attack. What a bassa." As much as we try to convince that killing little girls or nuclear attacks are not bummers, they are tragedies, we have yet been able to get the point across.
Shniya- It means "one second" Shniya is always accompanied by a hand motion- take all of your fingertips, put them together, and with the back of your hand facing the person you are addressing, wave back and forth, bending at the wrist.
Tamara- in Hebrew, Tamar means date and the "a" at the end adds a hint of God to the word. What's far more important, is that in Amharic (the language spoken by Ethiopian Jews), Tamara means amazing. I thought that was fitting. You should all remember this in any future interaction with me. Stam.


Food
The food in Israel is amazing. We have been fed Russian, Yemenite, Moroccan, Tunisian and Ethiopian food on different occasions. When you are a guest in Israel, it is very important to never turn down food that is offered to you. However, if you make the mistake of turning it down, it doesn't really matter because they will bring you food anyway. Always. And way too much of it. I have also learned a lot about how to cook since coming to Israel. As I mentioned earlier (like months ago), I learned how to make a grilled sandwich this year. Since then, I have become an expert at vegetable soup (from scratch), Petitim (Israeli couscous), lamb kabobs, egg drop soup and sauteed vegetables. I have successfully attempted shakshuka (sauteed vegetables with an egg poached on top in the juices) for the first time tonight. Although I have yet to attempt it, I have a feeling I could cook fish too. Lentils and chicken is next on the list to attempt.

Culture
Two foods have crossed over to be more a part of Israeli culture than its cuisine. Shwarma is one of them. I have seen people eating shwarma at ten AM on a regular basis. I personally overdosed on shwarma living next to Nazareth, the shwarma capital of the world. Every single time that I have talked about favorite foods with Israeli children, shwarma is always one of the first ones mentionned. Humus is also a major part of Israeli culture. In my fridge right now, there are three tubs of humus and one regular sized container of humus. It is served with absolutely everything. There are many humus restaurants in Israel- the meal is entirely humus with pita, the only option when you order is if you want spicy sauce with it.

One thing is very important to understand about Israel- everyone is family. It is completely acceptable for cab drivers to ask you if you are here to look for your husband, and then offer their son to you as an option and invite you over for shabbat dinner to meet him. This has also happened on a regular basis with people who sell vegetables at the shuk. People will invite you to come stay with them after conversations even as short as ten minutes.

Israelis are also very proud of their cellphones- especially teenagers. It is their most prized possession. All teenagers use their cellphones as ipods but you can hear them without headphones too. Often during classes someone will whip out a cellphone and put music on for everyone to enjoy- because listening to music in English is much more interesting than actually trying to learn something from me.

There is also a major difference in Israeli dress- especially in the periphery. Since living here, I have seen more zippers than I have ever seen before. Extra zippers apparently add some spunk and decoration to a boring pair of jeans. Many tops look like they've been bedazzled near to death. It entertains us to no end.

Music from the 90's is huge here. Every bar we go into plays hits from the 90's and every teenage boy can play "Time of Your Life" by Greenday on guitar.

This is a taste of what daily life in Israel is like for us. All these cultural differences we find all the time make great conversation topics between ourselves and makes us appreciate the differences between here and the US. It adds flavor to everyday life. Every bite of humus we eat is just a little bit better because of all this.